Monday, May 9, 2011

Carotid Artery

by Chris Thomas

This year a very rarely forming route called the Carotid Artery formed in the Broken Hearts drainage in Cody, WY. I've been watching this one for years, hoping and praying that it would come in, and it finally formed up in a big way! It's funny how that works in ice climbing. What has previously formed as a long, narrow, fearsome pillar with scrappy, poorly protected mixed climbing was a pure ice slugfest this year. A huge roof near the top was the crescendo finish, but compared to what I was expecting it was a moderate cruise and extremely fun! Perfect weather, good partners, and fantastic ice climbing made for a great day out.


The incredible pitch five amphitheatre of Broken Hearts. The Carotid Artery is on the left.





The ice has all melted here at home, but that doesn't mean ice season is over. Later this week I leave for Alaska, wish us luck!



Chris Thomas

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Looks like a great route. Love the roof. Question: it looks like you didn't place any pro until pretty high up. Was that because the ice was of poor quality?