Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Three's company in the mountains?


Approaching the North Buttress of Begguya (Mt. Hunter)
 ©Doug Shepherd
Climbing with three has it's appeals.  Splitting the work with an extra person, more warmth while cuddling, and general camaraderie. That said, I've been known to repeatedly say "I hate climbing in the mountains with three" and turn down climbing trips, especially on technical alpine routes.  My reasoning for this comes from many failed climbs with three people, due to general slowness, stuck ropes, difficult communication, and even a lack of stoke!

However, I've recently had a break-through, efficiently climbing large routes with a team of three.  Part of this is finding the right partners and part of it is due to finally figuring out the right gear and tactics for efficient movement with three people.  Keep reading for my take on making it work in the mountains with three.

Monday, September 22, 2014

Mile 18


David and I have been spending a lot of time with our friend, Sander, south of Big Timber, Montana in the Beartooth Mountains. Though a handful of people had "brushed" a few problems here and there, most of these rocks were untouched until this summer.

Sander made an awesome movie about the weeks we've had here so far this season.
Christine

Christine making easy work of High Noon.

Tuesday, September 9, 2014

The Rainspeed climbing jacket?

Big bang from a small package... The MTR 201 Rainspeed jacket is designed for trail running but it's at the top of my list for rain protection plus it only weighs an unbelievable 210g.  Being an alpine climber, I obsess about weight and functionality with all of my Mammut products.



Thursday, September 4, 2014

Mountain Lake Alpine - Squamish, BC


With the opening of the new Sea to Sky Gondola in Squamish, alpine adventures have suddenly become far more accessible. However, with improved access comes increased traffic and Sky Pilot, the prominent alpine peak just south of town, has likely seen more ascents this year than in the last 10 combined. Looking to escape the crowds and the summer heat in the valley, we decided to check out Mountain Lake, a beautiful yet tough-to-access zone on the south side of Sky Pilot, far from the burger-eating crowds at the top of the gondola.

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

What is Above Knows What is Below--A Reflection on the Rainier Season

Climbers on Rainier's crater rim.
This season on Rainier has been like the line of an EKG—valleys and summits, sadness and elation, life and death, reminding me of what it means to be here—to be doing what I'm called to do.

Friday, August 22, 2014

Chasing the Sun- Manitous' Revenge Ultra

I had no idea what I was getting myself into…
Little did I know that this race would break me.

Ladies and Gentlemen, I give you--The Devil's Path and the mountains that we were tasked to summit in succession.