Tuesday, September 8, 2009

The Cartwheel Whipper

video


After another round of debilitating nerve pain radiating from my upper back down my right arm, resulting in almost 2 months of no climbing this summer, I finally am back in the game... I have been getting back in shape for the last few weeks and getting psyched to get back on old projects when the weather gets cold enough. Recently I have gone over to the Spiders Web in the Adirondacks to check out my friend Matt McCormicks project that he has been working on a bunch this summer. Its an amazing all gear protected thin crack that will probably check in at 5.13c R when it gets completed. It has some pretty good gear and some mediocre gear like tiny rp's that will hold a down pull but not any kind of outward force, and some super strenuous technical moves on some of the worst foot holds I've ever had to put my faith into....very scary to say the least. I have top roped on it a few times and am psyched to give it a lead once Matt sends it.
Here is a video I shot of him on his closest redpoint attempt yet....two moves from a good hold that marks the end of the crux he takes this nasty fall ....even though the rope wasn't behind his leg when he was climbing, his left foot blows and he spins away from the rock and ends up with the rope all the way up between his crotch while he falls facing away from the cliff for a good thirty footer.....luckily the gear held and he wasn't hurt...much.... though he didn't hit his head, this is a prime example of a good reason to always wear a helmet.
Enjoy the audio (sorry for the profanity) of me involuntarily telling him to "watch it" as he is in mid air....as if to say..."hey don't do that...it doesn't look safe"...then the sound of his back slapping the rock...then my reactionary moan.

Be safe everyone.
Enjoy the upcoming fall and the crispy temps.
Peter Kamitses
Burlington, Vt

5 comments:

Team America said...

Venga Matt! a muerte!

Buzzman said...

It looks like the bolts and quick-draws did their job. Was his belay sleeping? He didn't hit the boulders at the base of the crag, so it looks like he was belayed at the last second.

Team America said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Anonymous said...

There are no bolts on this route and no the belay wasn't sleeping. The catch has to be dynamic so the pieces wont rip.

Eli said...

Congratulations to Matt for shaking off that nasty fall and working the route to completion. Spiders Web, just sick.