Friday, March 27, 2009

Winter Closure and Spring Babies

Stepping back in time to February........ it went! I took off the spurs and gave her hell, the result is Northwest Passage M11. The climbing is super cryptic, with giant pulls between the good hooks, and the crux arrives as you pull the lip. It's old news but I thought it necessary to report. Thanks to my brother for snapping a few shots. We have another that awaits for next year.

After all the cave time, I needed to get back to my roots. A route called Death Star lives in a canyon not far from Bozeman, it went first as an aid climb A3. That was 4 years ago. I went back once, a year later; bolted some anchors and worked on it as a free climb. It's been burning a hole in my brain since. A month ago I got to go back for the free attempt. The first three pitches climb moderate 5.11 then you enter the Death Star..... 5.12 stem corner with a 25 foot run out over micro cams (so heady) then clip the thank god bolt and do an all points off dyno out of the corner to a good edge, to more run out, to a 5.12 mantle finish. It's awesome! A four year project now to rest, the Death Star 5.12+ R. Sorry for all the spray I get real excited thinking about it.

Now it's back to winter here in Montana spring comes and goes this time of year. Spring skiing is setting up nicely but still I wish I was hanging in the RRG with the crew down there. Nice climbing you guys, you're killing it! Aside from all the climbing talk I have my craziest trip ever approaching, the birth of my first child. My wife Kimberly is in her last month of pregnancy and doing well. Wish us luck!


Whit M