Scenes from the San Juan Mountains, site of the AMGA Ski Guide Course.

Home on the range in the South Fork Valley ©Doug Shepherd

The Paradox Ice 2013 crew

In early March every year, a rowdy group descends on the Ouray Ice Park to celebrate the sport of ice climbing and hold a huge party.  The majority of climbers in this group have some sort of physical disability, ranging from stumpy fingers to missing limbs to partial paralysis.  For the past two years I've helped in any way I can to make this weekend a success and both times I've found myself barely keeping up with this amazing group of people.  Working with Paradox Sports is easily my favorite event of the year and I wanted to share some photos from the amazing event this past weekend.

The "stumpy" crew at the Ouray Brewery on the first night

Working on climbing without tools and trusting your feet

Sometimes standing in the snow is harder than the actual climbing

When you can't use your legs, you have to find new ways to move upwards.  Three tools (each with a rope tether and gri-gri) provide stability and upward motion here.

It also means you can recruit friends to rapidly transport you around the canyon

Working out the kinks on the first time ice climbing with a new prosthetic leg that has a bicycle shock and a rubber "tendon" to draw the foot back

Testing out Mark Miller's swing-able ice axe prosthetic prototype

The guiding/rigging crew at the beginning of the second day

Catching a ride into the Ouray Ice Park at the start of the second day

Myself setting up the rappel and lowering lines into the Ouray Ice Park on the second day.  The alpine smart made my job of safely and smoothly getting everyone in and out of the canyon much easier.

Myself explaining the silliness that is mixed climbing

All smiles after her first mixed climb ever

A well loved and still kicking Mammut Neon Light pack

Andres Marin helping to perfect technique

Claudia Camila Lopez, one of the hardest working photographers out there

Another huge smile, this time after topping out his first ever ice lead

Doug Shepherd
Los Alamos, NM

Ouray Ice Park - Colorado

The 2013 Ouray Ice Festival in Colorado went off without a hitch thanks to our Mammut athletes and staff! Climbers world-wide attended the festival to celebrate the sport of ice climbing, learn tricks and tips from professional athletes and to watch some of the best mixed climbers in the world compete during the 18th annual event.

Box Canyon is where the Ouray magic happens - Andrea Charest on the mixed comp route

Mammut athletes, Andrea Charest and Whit Magro competed in both the Elite Mixed Climbing Competition and the Hari Berger Speed Climbing Comp. Both athletes also taught participants during daily clinics throughout the weekend!


Clinic participants gearing up in Vendor Row

Women's mixed climbing clinic with - Andrea Charest

Andrea Charest with her clinic participants

We had a great time meeting new friends and providing Mammut demo equipment for a large crowd of enthusiastic ice climbers.

Heather Lords kept folks engaged and entertained at the Mammut booth

... and with the occasional down time, we kept ourselves warm with Ambler Jackets and entertained with food and hot drinks at the Mammut booth in vendor row!

Steve Lloyd warming up a snack!

This was Andrea's first competition at the Ouray Ice Festival. Despite below zero temps and being the first athlete to attempt the route, she climbed strong and with confidence. I was psyched to see her compete so well!

Andrea Charest

Andrea calm and collected at -6 degrees Fahrenheit

Stylin' on the steeps!

Whit Magro also had a very strong run on the mixed comp route; easily picking up the 4th place title!

Mag-Daddy Whit Magro!

Right at home for Whit!

Whit sussing out the next section



Tough love with the Tuna Roll

The Speed climbing comp was a new addition this year to the Ouray Ice Festival. It provided a nice high-speed experience for athletes and spectators and was surely a home run addition to the festival!

Andrea Charest racing in the speed comp

By Sunday evening, Ouray Colorado was returning to a sleepy mountain town as many of the event participants and vendors headed home. It was easy to see the satisfaction on many faces from yet another spectacular Ouray Ice Festival. We'd like to thank all of the volunteers, participants and vendors who make the Ouray Ice Festival possible. Looking forward to 2014! We hope to see many of you return to Ouray next year!

~ Dean Lords

Its been a pretty good early ice season this year, and with more snow in the mountains, routes should continue to grow. The Ouray Ice Park is scheduled to open a week early on Dec 12th. Conditions will be fantastic for the Festival starting Jan 8.. Come out and mingle with top climbers around the world, try gear, and get some good instruction.

I've been happily testing out some new pieces from Mammut this Autumn, and have come up with a few new favorites to add to the arsenal. As always the Tripod helmet is the most comfortable and easiest to use helmet on the market, period. Try one on at the fest, you will buy it and wear it everyday.

In the photo below, I'm starting up a somewhat funky first pitch of the classic Skylight climb. Campo Pants and Jasper Pull are a sweet combo for moderate protection and incredible movement.


This is on the Ames Ice Hose. There was a party on the ice already so we took some laps on the 5.9 rock pitch start. I'm sporting the Base Jump Pants (my everyday favorite for ice and alpine) and the new Extreme Baltoro Jacket. This jacket is great. Superb protection from dripping ice and howling wind, and stretches and climbs perfectly. Excellent for backcountry ice climbing and alpinism.


And finally the Direct North Face in South Mineral, another early season mandatory tune up climb. It was a gorgeous day so I went with the venerable Champ pants and Verglas Jacket.


Thanks to Mammut for all the sweet gear! All the SJMG guides are super-psyched on their uniforms this year. We went with the Extreme Baltoro and Stratus Flash pieces this year and they are excellent. Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!

Respectfully Submitted,
Clint Cook
San Juan Mountain Guides
Ouray, CO