Showing posts with label training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label training. Show all posts

Friday, November 13, 2015

See You Later, Sweden and Montana; Hello Nevada and California!

This past July, we left our home in Bozeman, Montana to move to Reno, Nevada. Christine will start medical school in August and we chose this location because it has ~10,000 boulder problems within a ~two hour radius, great sport and traditional climbing, and potential for year-round outdoor climbing! Not to mention it's less than four hours to Bishop and five hours to Yosemite. Oh yeah, and it has a medical school. That, too.

Before we moved, we took a quick trip to Sweden to visit David's family. 

Below are some pictures from the summer.


Monday, December 16, 2013

Fear the Braid

Perhaps only Red Sox fans will get the title reference, but their mantra worked for the Sox to clobber their competition, winning the 2013 World Series! I hope to keep a similar type of "Fear the Beard" magical motivation with me throughout competition season.

This season I'll be heading to Bozeman, MT in December to teach Mammut ice clinics and compete in the UIAA Open North American Ice Climbing Championships, then on to Ouray, CO the following month for more clinics and the Ouray Ice Fest competition.  The end of January brings my hometown Smuggs Ice Bash in Vermont, and in February, the 21st Mt. Washington, NH Ice Fest.

Training is underway. Ice isn't far from forming here in the East, and I can't wait for festival season to begin!  Get after it!  ~Andrea Charest

Monday, February 11, 2013

Training for Climbing

Hello again, friends!

In the last few years, I've become a bit of a training nerd. I started climbing in 1999, and spent the majority of my first 12 years injured. (Literally!) I always just assumed that I was injury prone, and there was little I could do about it. However, in the summer of 2011, I happened to spend a month with a good climbing friend and avid trainer. Tired of too much couch time and a severe plateau in ability, I embarked on my first true, climbing-related training plan that summer.

Having trained regularly ever since, I cannot promote it enough! Since that time, I've had very few (and no serious) climbing injuries. As such, I've been able to climb without interruption (even if just indoors) for nearly two years, and I've actually been able to improve at climbing--if only because I haven't constantly been healing or trying to get back in shape.

Many people want to train for rock climbing--for many reasons--but don't really know how. And though I don't claim to be an expert, I've been burying my head in nutrition and (strength) training books during the last few years, and have a definite idea of how the body works with respect to training, nutrition and rest. I also see that many climbers' training plans and theories are quite antithetical to the doctrines of modern sports science.

As such, I've begun writing training articles for a new climbing gym supply company's website. All articles are based on the information from well-researched, published works, and are adapted to climbing. If you're curious, feel free to take a gander! I've only written a few articles to date, but I'll continue to generate more on a fairly regular basis.

Take care!

Monday, August 22, 2011

Training, Working, Climbing, Training, Working, Climbing

Life continues to roll by here in Sweden. Because David and I are both quite busy working, we've been spending most of our time in town... but we've been pretty happy about that, too, as being in town means we also have a bed, shower, climbing gym, "regular" gym, refrigerator, and such.

Here are some photos of this all...

David's work: Magazinet Sport.

Bench pressing at the neighborhood gym, Skårepumpen.

More bouldering at Dye (in Karlstad).

Trying to find the good part of this bad sloper

David and a friend spent five hours moving a 300+ kg stone away from this boulder in order to add extensions to many of Dye's better problems.

David re-sending some of these problems with the new extensions.

Swedish muffins with wild-picked lingon berries.

Back in Skårepumpen.

David working on the complete Dye traverse, a 65-move project.

Toward the end of that traverse.

Me working on a climb called Sälen.

David working on yet another problem made possible by the removal of the 300kg block.

Sport climbing in Byn, about an hour west of Karlstad.

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Awesome Book!

Anyone who's read any of my posts or knows me is probably tired of hearing about all theinjuries.

I swear I'm not trying to be passive about this! As much as I climb, I try also to stretch, do antagonist exercises, etc... I also listen to my body, and stop when things hurt... But all of a sudden: Pop! Ouch! A new injury that I never saw coming.

I recently bought a book, Pilates for the Outdoor Athlete (Lauri Ann Stricker, Fulcrum Publishing).

In this book, Lauri addresses athletes -climbers, runners, bikers, etc...-, their needs, common injuries, muscle imbalances. She discusses for each athlete which muscle groups need strengthening and which need stretching. After a general introduction to pilates principles, history, technique, she gives multiple routines for each sport. Additionally, a comprehensive list of exercises and stretches is given in the back, and a list organizing these by the muscles they work.

Some of you probably think I'm from exercise Kindergarten, but I've been using this book for a while, and have been excited -so I thought I should share!

(Up at home in Montana right now, I even got my Mom to join me.)

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Mountain niceness training tips

Waking up this morning I was greeted with the crisp crisp mountain air. My hands and feet were freezing as I rode my cruiser bike to coffee shop. The sunrises are looking a bit different....and yes the days are getting shorter. It is true I am crazed by the glorious snow and winter! I do enjoy our beautiful Idaho summers filled with amazing mt biking, climbing and hiking but they are all preparation.....for the epic winter ahead of us!

Here is a training tip for you to add to the mix. Enjoy and have a laugh.....and some fun!

Danny Irie Walton