Thursday, June 13, 2013

2013 Vail Bouldering World Cup, Forerunning

I’m Flannery Shay-Nemirow, and I’m new to the Mammut athlete team. In between road tripping around the West Coast and hanging out in Denver, CO, I was asked to come in and forerun the Vail, CO World Cup.

Dave Wetmore on his way to winning the pre-comp comp
Phillip Symons slab campusing for lyfe

I’ve been climbing for about half my life and have years of experience in the way of competition. Recently, I came to the conclusion that I’m not cut out for the life of comp climber. After failing to make finals (sometimes spectacularly) time after time, I talked some USAC setters into letting me forerun the problems. Through this, I’ve been around for many ABS nationals, USA bouldering world cups, and more local competitions than I can recall.
Chris Danielson having fun with forerunning 

It was a pleasure working with fellow head setter and fellow Mammut athlete Martin and seeing others (Vasya Vorotnikov, Anna Stohr, and Juliane Wurm). It was a good comp, and left me feeling astounded and inspired. 

Bonus hold tape makes or breaks the comp
The most accomplished climbers and setters have put years of effort into perfecting their craft. Most every move is done with the intention and most every hold is on the wall for a reason. There is a wealth of knowledge to be had in the world of competitive climbing, even if you don’t ever register for an event. Gains can be made by just watching climbers, and talking about their craft. If comp style climbing keeps up it’s flair, the moves are just going to keep getting more interesting and the techniques more involved. It’s an activity to keep an eye on even if you’re focus tends more towards plugging gear than plastic pulling.