Showing posts with label colorado. Show all posts
Showing posts with label colorado. Show all posts

Monday, February 2, 2015

Gone Ice Climbing

Erin Smart on Stairway to Heaven in Eureka, CO. Photo: David Moskowitz
“Ka-chunk” went my Nomics, all December long.
Shaking out the screaming barfies–my lingering song.
I enjoyed the ice, had I been wrong?
Back to Chamonix and ski season, where I belong.

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Three's company in the mountains?

Approaching the North Buttress of Begguya (Mt. Hunter)
 ©Doug Shepherd
Climbing with three has it's appeals.  Splitting the work with an extra person, more warmth while cuddling, and general camaraderie. That said, I've been known to repeatedly say "I hate climbing in the mountains with three" and turn down climbing trips, especially on technical alpine routes.  My reasoning for this comes from many failed climbs with three people, due to general slowness, stuck ropes, difficult communication, and even a lack of stoke!

However, I've recently had a break-through, efficiently climbing large routes with a team of three.  Part of this is finding the right partners and part of it is due to finally figuring out the right gear and tactics for efficient movement with three people.  Keep reading for my take on making it work in the mountains with three.

Thursday, June 13, 2013

2013 Vail Bouldering World Cup, Forerunning

I’m Flannery Shay-Nemirow, and I’m new to the Mammut athlete team. In between road tripping around the West Coast and hanging out in Denver, CO, I was asked to come in and forerun the Vail, CO World Cup.

Dave Wetmore on his way to winning the pre-comp comp
Phillip Symons slab campusing for lyfe

I’ve been climbing for about half my life and have years of experience in the way of competition. Recently, I came to the conclusion that I’m not cut out for the life of comp climber. After failing to make finals (sometimes spectacularly) time after time, I talked some USAC setters into letting me forerun the problems. Through this, I’ve been around for many ABS nationals, USA bouldering world cups, and more local competitions than I can recall.
Chris Danielson having fun with forerunning