Thursday, April 29, 2010

Spring...Ski or Climb?













Photos-Kyle Coshow


Spring-Ski or Climb?
Last week when the temps spiked we knew we had to pull the plug on a Sawtooth expedition. Instead, our party headed south to the City of Rocks. The flip flops felt good after 100 days in my tele boots. It was great to get on the rock and sport climb in the warm sun. The City of Rocks offers spectacular granite climbing in a beautiful desert setting. The "city" as we call it is a must on every climbers list.

Enjoy the Mountain Niceness!
Danny Walton
























































































































































































































































































































Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Rights of Passage


Each of us as a human has the right to our own vision(s). Through these vision(s), I believe, we find the opportunity to discover who we are. As a rock climber my vision is to continue to allow the places in which I climb to shape me into the best human being I can be. My vision is to walk a humble path of strength and power, but not power in a take over sort of way. Power in a way of personal freedom, the freedom to be me and express it as best I can.

Traditionally, it seems, societies had a sort of rights of passage for the people to assist them in their visions and aid them in their path of growing up. As a Yosemite climber one of the "traditional" rights of passage is climbing El Capitan. As a free climber my personal rights of passage is not only climbing El Cap but free climbing it. This brings us to today.

It's a rainy day Tuesday here in Yosemite. And a rest day to boot! Yesterday Ben Ditto and I went up on The Nose to fix our ropes up a ways. The general idea is to free climb our way up there or "French Free" if need be and check out the route.; to become familiar with the terrain and the systems, etc. I've had my fair share of long routes but I've never done a wall in full wall style. Meaning, mostly that I've never hauled before. Yesterday was my intro to hauling!

This was very interesting aspect. Throwing one's weight around in order to haul up a large bag full of gear and water and food is a bit of a burly task, especially if you are trying to free climb. Needless to say I was a wee bit worked by the day's end. But, it felt great and it had me (it has me) excited about the whole goal, about the vision.

So, the rest day, rainy day is welcome. As of this moment the weather is looking like rain and possible snow until Friday. Come Sunday its sunny skies and we'll most likely take up residence on The Nose for a few days. This will be step three in the whole process and something I anticipate greatly. The climbing will be interesting, the hauling will be tough, the view will be breath-taking and by the time we reach the summit I'm pretty sure I'll be exhausted. It's going to be a good journey and I look forward to seeing what lies on the other side.

Monday, April 19, 2010

Southern Idaho Basalt

Most of Southern Idaho and eastward up the Snake River Plain is largely composed of volcanic basalt. Some of it is good and some of it is bad, but it's always adventurous! One area in particular started to see a lot of interest during the Sport Climbing Rush in the mid to late '80's. Now hosting over 700+ routes, Massacre rocks offers one of the largest basalt climbing destinations in the USA. Sport and traditional routes abound on various walls and alcoves near the Snake River in Southern Idaho. Offering hundreds of routes 5.11 and harder, Massacre is a great place to work on your on sight skills!
Here are a few photos i shot from our last visit.
that's me!

Heather Lords

Chad Witbeck aka "Jr"


Heather Lords

The basalt stone at Massacre offers everything - pockets, pinches, slopers, crimps, cracks of all sizes, and a whole lot of adventure. It isn't uncommon to pull the rope out of the bag, start at one end of a sector and climb 15 routes of 5.10 and harder all stacked next to each other and only be 15% into all of the routes at that one sector! A sport craggers paradise!


-Dean Lords

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Sunny and Dry... in the Southeast?

I've been driving around this continent since the end of February, looking for good weather in all the usual places... But when snow and wind chased us out of Nevada... wind blew us out of Texas... and two weeks of rain and snow sealed the deal at Indian Creek, my partner and I decided to bust a fat move to Kentucky! If we weren't able to find sun in the desert, and climate statistics were going prove utterly useless- we might as well try out the other side of the US. Destination: Red River Gorge. Where, even if it rains, you can at least climb.

A month into our stay here, we're finally recovering from bouldering tweaks, illnesses, bad-weather-slovenliness, and car break-downs. And we've enjoyed all but a a week's worth of bad weather. (Knock on wood!) The Red seems to be granting us some of the best spring weather in its history-- with the last few weeks even being "too hot"- near 90 F some days. Woah!

Ticks, spiders, snakes, flies, and mosquitoes have come out in full-force with the spring leaves- but you just have to be careful where you step- it's summer here now!

Good news is: Miguel's now has five showers ($1.50/ 8 minutes of *hot* water) and more bathrooms. Camping is still $2/ night/ person and there is on-site wifi ($2/week). Add that up, and living here = cheap!

The state park (Natural Bridge State Resort) immediately across the road has beautiful trail system that's perfect for running and hiking.


Oh yeah... if you're going to drive to Kentucky, it's going to take a while.

Doing time on I-70. Swedish David isn't used to the size of this country.

I still think we're in Kansas, Toto.

Still in Kansas.

Finally at the Red! Crossing the stream on the way to Funk Rock City.

Steven, my female dog, collecting ticks.
Christine needs all the rest she can get. Onsighting at the Solarium.

I love this place...

Friend Konrad on a "12.d" at the Shady Grove.
-Christine Balaz

Friday, April 16, 2010

April or February? More pow skiing in the Sawtooths!



Skiing the shadows of Mt Heyburn


























































Living the dream at the Bench Lakes Hut!






















Fresh K2 Coomback
















Fishhook Yurt
























It is always a treat to ski each spring with my friends/guides from Sun Valley Trekking. What makes it so special is being with people that share my passion for skiing, powder and time in the mountains. Like our Pioneer Yurt trip last week we were blessed with another 2 feet of fresh in the Sawtooths. Things were not stable up high which forced us to lower angle pow skiing. Great turns and face shots all day long!
Gonna be a great spring! Enjoy the mountain niceness!


Cheers,
Danny Walton











Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Dave Watson in Kashmir

Kashmir

The skiing here in Gulmarg, Kashmir, India has been great. Typical high pressure over the Pir Panjal mountains has given us blazing sun, mild temps and big smiles. Views of Nanga Parbat’s Rupal face are seen between face shots and the twin pyramids of Nun and Kun beg for a future visit. Now as a series of small storms move through the area we have some down time to find out what is going on in the rest of the world. Gulmarg is so peaceful and mellow, I sometimes forget about the struggles of the people that live in the valley.
Kashmir is the site of the longest standing land conflict in history. India, Pakistan and China all claim Kashmir as their own, and because of this, there is a heavy military presence. It is not uncommon to load the gondola and have a soldier squeeze in beside you with an AK-47 over his shoulder.

A while back the Indian army was blocking the entrance to a mosque in Srinagar, naturally there was a protest. A young man was killed by soldiers and the protest escalated into a riot. Over the past week there have been several instances where violence has broken out throughout the city and even in the surrounding villages resulting in more deaths.

Up in the mountains we don’t hear of these things and we certainly don’t have to deal with these matters. In the world we create for ourselves it is easy to become self-absorbed and not pay attention to the hardship of others in far off lands. Here in the villages, life is hard. It is apparent as we ski down through these villages just how different our lives are, fat skis, gore-tex, ipods, expensive airfare all for a selfish pursuit of pleasure as they deal with damaged crops, insufficient medical care, cold homes and soldiers imposing on their freedoms. Saddening to think that so many people live like this and makes one feel super lucky (and foolishly lame) that our concerns are with where the good snow is and not where the next meal is coming from.

Kashmir is an interesting place, incredible natural beauty, friendly people, extreme poverty. I first came here to ski down powdery mountain faces. As I spend more time here, my personal skiing has become a distant concern. Trying to find an effective and self sustaining way to help the locals has become the primary focus. Promoting tourism and training local ski guides has been a good start, but I hope to find a way to have a positive impact on a larger portion of the population.

- Dave Watson

Monday, April 5, 2010

Ruby Mnts Round 2

A few weeks ago I had another opportunity to head over to the Ruby Mountains to make some turns and socialize with the Ruby Heli crew. My trip was brief. In actuality it was less than 24hrs, but we made quality use of the time. The intention of my visit was to see if we could get in a few last season photos. The owner of the heli outfit, Joe Royer, is a fabulous photographer and has some of the most stunning terrain at his disposal. Generally Joe is swamped with managing the heli operation. Yet occasionally windows of opportunity present themselves for shooting photos. Such circumstances necessitate a lull in heli work and the weather’s cooperation. These periods are rare and usually short, but certainly worth taking advantage of. Up until a few weeks ago there had been no such openings, as the Rubies had suffered from minimal snowfall and tumultuous weather all winter. However, the benevolent heavens developed sympathy for the range and chose to show some love. Plenty of angel dust and sunshine ensued. My brother called and I was on the road the next morning. It was time to go play in the Rubies’ heavenly gift.

We all set out at 5 am in the cats, geared up for making some quality photos and having some fun in the snow. Mother nature had already provided the ultimate backdrop, as the weather, snow and terrain couldn’t have been more ideal. It was then up to us to do the rest. In addition to Joe, Jon Marshall, another gifted photographer, decided to join the photo escapade. Jon was visiting from Montana and working as a guest guide. With that there were 5 of us in total: myself, my brother (Jamie), Joe, Jon and Francy (Joe’s lovely wife). We had a fabulous time and the results of our efforts are provided below. Jon Marshall captured all of these photos. I have yet to see Joe’s pics, but I imagine they are strong, like always, and will surface eventually.

Enjoy!

Erica Laidlaw


Erica Laidlaw
Photographer: Jon Marshall


Erica Laidlaw
Photographer: Jon Marshall


Sunday, April 4, 2010

Canadian Ice Climbing

Spent three sweet weeks guiding up in the Canadian Rockies in March. It has become an annual pilgrimage for me, and an incredible way to wrap up the ice season. This year was the polar opposite from last year. Temps were warm, ice was sticky, and I was psyched!

I had three sets of guests, and we hit just about everything from North to South. Some of the highlights were....

The Sorcerer with Paul.

Murchison Falls with Bill.
Carlsberg Column with Paul and Bill!


The Weeping Wall with Bobby and Pat.

And one of these days....

Huge thanks to Mike, Dean, JP, and Eric. The whole Mammut family is a special thing that I am honored to be part of.

20 days of climbing, only 2 outfits. Laser Jacket and Base Jump Pants; or if it was nasty, Extreme Baltoro and Extreme Hybrid Pants.

Just got to check out the new summer 2010 line, and it is freaking amazing. The new Glacier and Fiamma pants are outstanding, as is the Trion Guide pack and Olymp jacket. Keep it up!!!

Cheers,
Clint Cook
IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.ourayclimbing.blogspot.com

Ouray Ice Fest Video

Here's a quick link to some footage of the 2010 Ouray Ice Festival Competition that a friend sent me. You can find footage of fellow Mammut athlete Whit Magro as well.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=K_PwricIkhU

Hope everyone's tearing into spring. Great rock climbing conditions here in Colorado!
Cheers,
jw

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Pioneer Yurt- Idaho















Cobb elevation 11,522



ski out the door











Greetings from the snowy Pioneer Mountains in Central Idaho! What was going to be ski mountaineering trip turned into a spring powder fest! We were blessed with over 2 feet of fresh! The reactive new snow forced us to lower angle and tree skiing. We still received face shots all day long! Two full days of wearing your hood while touring. The Alagna jacket and pants kept me total warm and dry while it was totally nuking. I was skiing with the guides from Sun Valley Trekking who also own the yurt. The new Pio Yurt is 24 feet and is laid out. I look forward to returning soon to ski some amazing lines in this beautiful alpine setting with peaks up 12,000 feet. Check out www.svtrek.com for more info.

Cheers,
Danny Walton



























Idaho Report

The increased snow stability of springtime has allowed us to reach higher ski destinations the last few weeks. Variable snow conditions keep things interesting and exciting at times! It's that time of year where the descent from the summit of a 12,000' peak down to the valley 5,000' below, will offer deep powder, ice, trap-door crust layers, and spring corn; all in a single run!
In addition to some adventurous skiing, I've also been able to use some of the newest Mammut clothing and packs. The ability to move quickly in the mountains and comfortably in the various types of terrain and weather found within, gain and descend large amounts of vertical relief, and have reliable and functional clothing and equipment is what Mammut is best at providing! My favorite alpine oriented products from the Spring/Summer 2010 collection are the new Wing Jacket, Quantic Jacket, Fiamma Pants, and Trion Light 28l pack. These items combined with the tried and true Broad Peak Jacket, Tripod Helmet, and TX-Lite headlamp are all staple items i use regularly for lightweight ski adventures into the high mountains of Idaho.
South Ridge of Dickey Peak, Lost River Range. We skied a nice steep line just left of the rock horn, left of Heather.

Eye's on Rick as he heads for the Hourglass on the Super Gully, Lost River Peak 12,078' - Lost River Range, Idaho

Heather getting ready to jump into the East Chute of Dickey Peak. Castor Pants, Microlayer Jacket, Tripod Helmet, Guide Work Gloves and Respect Pack. Light is right for us when playing in our local mountains!

Trion Light 28l Pack in the Super Gully

Makalu Jacket and Castor Pants near the top of Lost River Peak. The Super Gully drops down left of Matt into the shadows.

Waiting on the summit of Lost River Peak for the snow to soften with temps in the low teen's and a slight breeze but plenty of sunshine! I'm wearing the Wing Jacket over top of my Broad Peak. A perfect lightweight combo for what i like to do.

The COR Chute on the 11,800' sub peak to Mt. Borah.

- Dean Lords