Wednesday, June 26, 2013

The Mount Rainier Summer Summit Season Begins (Sort Of!)


After a springtime of climbing and guiding in Alaska/Denali and an enjoyable stint back in Mammut & my home-base state of Vermont, I arrived back in the Pacific Northwest this past week for a series of Rainier climbs with Rainier Mountaineering Incorporated (RMI). As chance would have it, my climb was slotted to be the first climb of the summer season—apparently though, nobody had shouted to the sky that it was about to be summer. Or, if they had, the sky wasn't listening.
Practicing self-arrests during the training.

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Product Review: Mammuts Realization Shorts (Climbing Harness)

Just wanted to do a quick product review of Mammut's Realization Climbing Shorts that are actually a pair of shorts with a harness, complete with waist belt and leg loops built right into the garment.

As a member of Mammuts Athlete team I have been using all manner of Mammut products for many years now and have always been impressed and reassured with the quality, durablity and functionality of all of it.

The Realization Shorts have been on the market for about a year now,  and I must admit when I first heard about them I was a bit skeptical. But as I am curious by nature and they are new and different I finally got around to trying them out.   
  I have never been a big fan of too many bells and whistles and have always appreciated the construction of the lightest gear and the aesthetic of the cleanest lines in design,  this product does both of those things.  They are pared down to the simple basics you need for most cragging and gym climbing. Two plastic gear loops and two UIAA certified tie in points that serve both as the carabiner attatchment for belaying and rappeling as well as the rope tie in point.
The construction is solid and well fitting, I have about a 32inch waste and the medium size fits well.







I spent some time cragging in them this spring including some lengthy sessions projecting some sport routes hanging around for nearly an hour at a time.  My first pleasant surprise was that this rig was definitlely a bit more comfortable than a traditional harness....I attributed this to two factors....

Sunday, June 23, 2013

The Emperor Face

"Everything is training and nothing is training" - Josh Wharton

The Emperor Face, Mt Robson
©Doug Shepherd
Many peaks hold a mystical quality to me, steeped in climbing history, in stories of joy and sorrow.  My friends and I have been extremely lucky to add our own stories to a few peaks around the world from Alaska to Patagonia, becoming part of the rich tapestry of climbing lore.  Success or failure, while important to our egos, did not define our experiences in tracing out both the known and unknown.  It is this idea that draws me to alpine climbing, knowing that our own particular experiences are both a unique exploration into our abilities as climbers and part of a larger narrative of both those that have come before and those that are yet to come.

Thursday, June 20, 2013

Home Sweet Home

Idaho


The Esoteric Project - Arcane

It's been a busy spring season with a lot of airport time and various Mammut sponsored events across the country. As always, it's great to get out and see friends and climb with other Mammut athletes at these events. There is somewhat of a lull in events this time of the year which allows me to focus on getting some fitness at my home crags.

Heather Lords warming up on Mr. Hanky 5.12a - South Park
photo: Dean Lords

Monday, June 17, 2013

Cayuga Trails 50 Miler---Wet, Wild, Unforgettable--- Cole Crosby Mammut MTR Athlete Race-Recap

How to begin after such an incredible day yesterday.  For one, I can say that I am so sore that it is just silly.  My feet ache a little, I have a swollen ankle that limited my performance yesterday, and my legs make going up stairs and down stairs a living struggle.  I never thought I could survive and run 50 miles.  I always knew I had the ability to but even in the early miles of the race past the 50k point(31 miles approximately), I was worried a DNF was in the cards.  When I look back on my performance I am so thankful for such an incredible support group and everyone out there that helped keep me motivated all the way to the finish.
The closeup! I am number 45 next to Sage Canaday and Yassine Diboun

Thursday, June 13, 2013

2013 Vail Bouldering World Cup, Forerunning

I’m Flannery Shay-Nemirow, and I’m new to the Mammut athlete team. In between road tripping around the West Coast and hanging out in Denver, CO, I was asked to come in and forerun the Vail, CO World Cup.



Dave Wetmore on his way to winning the pre-comp comp
Phillip Symons slab campusing for lyfe





I’ve been climbing for about half my life and have years of experience in the way of competition. Recently, I came to the conclusion that I’m not cut out for the life of comp climber. After failing to make finals (sometimes spectacularly) time after time, I talked some USAC setters into letting me forerun the problems. Through this, I’ve been around for many ABS nationals, USA bouldering world cups, and more local competitions than I can recall.
Chris Danielson having fun with forerunning 

Sunday, June 9, 2013

TESTING OUT MAMMUT'S HERON PRO EXPEDITION PACK ON ALASKA'S DENALI/MT. McKINLEY

I grew up in Washington State on the Puget Sound, so I had plenty of time to watch herons in action. They are large yet delicate creatures, able to plod along in the marsh for hours, always ready to act with precision when the moment called. With those memories in mind, it is only logical that Mammut's expedition pack be called the Heron Pro. This 85+ liter beast is well primed for Denali/Mt. McKinley style expeditioning, as evidenced during the trip I recently guided with Rainier Mountaineering Incorporated on Denali's famed West Buttress. If you're considering a Denali climb or are looking at a winter expedition pack for alpine objectives like the New Hampshire's Presidential Traverse or Maine's Katahdin/Baxter peaks, you'll be interested to hear about this pack. Though it's just now catching on in the American expedition market, it has a lot to offer arctic/winter/high-altitude climbers in terms of carrying capacity complemented by performance design.

Heading up the fixed lines between 14-17K

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Saturday, June 1, 2013

Iceland Heli Skiing

At the end of May, most people have hung up the skis and begun the climbing season. While recent posts here are more rock climbing oriented, I have just finished my ski season with two great weeks of heli skiing in Iceland.
This year the company I ski guide for, Eleven Experience (www.elevenexperience.com) began the process of opening a heli operation on the North side of Iceland. This year was a dry run with a few selected guests, more guides than we needed and lots of logistical support from the locals. Next season we hope to be fully operational with lodging, down day activities and lots and lots of quality skiing. 
Our pilot was pretty rad

Iceland is an amazing place. Wild, remote and sparsely populated with the friendliest people I have ever encountered. Most of the population is scattered along the coastlines with the mountains being in the middle of the island and dropping straight into the ocean.
Skiing toward the fijord